Places of Interest - Vietnam

"hue"




introduction


Hue can be described as a mix of old and new; from pre-Communist with beautiful exfoliated old French colonial buildings, but also super-modern department stores and hotels. One moment a limousine appears next to a "cyclo" or an old lady with a portable kitchen on her back to sell stuff on the street. The city owes its rich history to its location on the mysterious "Perfume" river. In the 18th century the new leader of Vietnam chose Hue as his Imperial city and had a large citadel built with palaces, temples and pagodas. Later, large imperial tombs would be built just outside the city, often built on behalf of the living leader. The city, despite its great popularity among local and foreign tourists, was as conservative as quiet. That does not mean that nothing happens; on every corner you can sit on a local nice terrace or opt for a Western restaurant.  

 

In addition to his Imperial background, the city suddenly became world news during the TET offensive in January 1968 when the city was occupied by Communist fighters from North Vietnam. For three-and-a-half weeks the communist flag flew above the city with all its consequences. American troops and South Vietnamese soldiers "liberated" the city but had to destroy it for that reason. In 1993, Hue was put on the world heritage list by UNESCO so that the money cranes could be opened for recovery and construction. In addition to the Imperial citadel which is the city's biggest landmark, the city has many museums, pagodas and of course the Imperial tombs as a tourist site. You can also take a boat trip on the river as well as many "DMZ" tours from the city.


highlights


"The Imperial Citadel":

The main attraction of Hue is the Imperial Citadel or "Kinh Tanh", whose construction was ordered in 1802 by "Gia Long" (who had crowned himself Emperor). Until 1945 this would be (in any case in name) the seat of the government of Vietnam. The citadel is 10km2 in size and once housed 148 buildings. Because of wars (French and American) and natural causes there are only 20 left and they are restored with  UNESCO money (since 1993). The imperial palace in the city is a replica of the Forbidden City in Beijing and is circled by a high wall and a moat of 30 meters wide and 4 meters deep. You see from far already the flag-tower that looks like a sort of medieval bunker and/or fire-tower. It is the highest of Vietnam with its 37 meters and it was here that the Communist flag the TET offensive demonstrative blew for 3.5 weeks until American troops entered the city. 

 

The most important part of the citadel is the Imperial Palace complex which is about 2km2 and is also encircled with a high wall. First you walk through the "Ngo Mon" gate where on the balcony the Emperor appeared at important events; the last was in 1945 when Emperor "Bao Dai" announced his resignation. Two Lotus ponds follow and the beautiful "Thai Hoa" palace, completely decorated with wooden ramps and ceiling. Here stands the Imperial throne from which performed in ceremonies, as well as (in) tributes and official receptions. Unfortunately there is little left of the private palace "the forbidden purple city" of the Emperor than some ruins. However, there is the beautiful "Imperial" reading room and the Theater. You can also take a look at the "Mandarin-hall" (also restored) there where she prepared ceremonies. Finally, there is the "To Mieu" temple complex and the "Dien Tho" residence where the Emperor's women lived.


"Thien My Pagoda":

Since 1601 there was a pagoda on this spot on the "Perfume" river at about 4 km from the current city of Hue. This pagoda "Thien My" was built in 1844 and, like the citadel, is an important symbol of Hue and Vietnam. The "Thap Phuoc Duyen" tower consists of 7 floors each containing a Buddha statue in human form. From the sixties the pagoda is a gathering point of political demonstrations against opponents of Buddhism. Behind the main building is still the "Austin" car that brought the monk "Thich Quang Duc" to Saigon to put himself in flames at the crossroads of the eye of the world. 

 

Other attractions:

The Imperial Tombs (Tomb of "Minh Mang") - just outside the city.



history


Before Hue became the Imperial capital of Vietnam, there was the citadel of "Phu Xuan", a city about 5 km northwest of the present Hue. From here, South Vietnam was ruled by the lords of "Nguyen" in the year 1744. The "Tay Son" rebels would besiege the city and rule for about 15 years; then the city came into the hands of "Nguyen Anh" who himself was the emperor "Gia Long" and was the first in a long series of emperors who would rule the country (at least in name) until the end of WWII. In 1885 the then emperor "Ham Nghi" was advised to protest against French activities in the South China Sea, in the Bay of Tonkin. This decision was expensive because the French besieged the city and the Vietnamese soldiers were far in the minority. The French won easily and would have needed three days to burn all the documents, books and writings that were in the Imperial library. They took everything they could carry out so that nothing reminded of earlier times. The emperor was also replaced by "Dong Khanh" who was more positive about French input and influence. The Emperors would rule the country in name but had no idea what was going on outside the walls. 

 

Once more the city "Hue" would shock the world; During the TET offensive (Vietnamese New Year), January 1968, during the Vietnam War there was heavy fighting in this city between American marines and the South Vietnamese army on one side and the Vietcong and the North Vietnamese army on the other. It was the only city that was occupied by the communists for more than a few days. Since the Americans were occupied in the "Khe Sanh" in the DMZ zone, the Northerners managed to take the city within 24 hours. During the occupation of about 3.5 weeks of Hué, the NVA (the North Vietnamese army) carried out mass executions in which about 4000 so-called 'whites' (people suspected of being anti-communist) were killed. Months before the attack began, the Communists began to collect names so it did not take much effort to track down these people - soldiers of the South Vietnamese army, intellectuals, priests, monks, civil servants and wealthy businessmen. When the South Vietnamese could not recapture the city, American troops were deployed to shoot neighborhood after neighbourhood in rubble. The whole city including the citadel was virtually destroyed by Vietcong rockets, American napalm and South Vietnamese airplane bombs. A famous statement by an American soldier would be; "We had to destroy the city to save it". After the fighting, thousands of bodies were recovered in dozens of mass graves around the stadium of Hué. A total of 10,000 people would die-thousands but also VC and NVA soldiers, 400 South Vietnamese soldiers and 150 US marines. In 1975 the Communists retake the city to stay this time. 



tips & advice (2002 en 2014)


Phu Bai International Airport is located approximately 15 kilometers south of the city. The train station is about 2 to 3 kilometers to the west of the center - if you keep walking along the river you will find it automatically. There are two bus stations - An Hoa is located at least five or six kilometers northwest of the city center and serves buses that go in northern direction. The large bus station "Phio Nam" is located four kilometers south of the city center and can be reached on the main route "D. Hung Vuong". This one is walkable but not with a large heavy bag during the rush hour in the sun.

 

Hue - Hoi An (2002): buses depart from "Phio Nam" bus station and the journey takes 4 hours.

 

Hue - Aluoi - Hue: for this you also have to go to the big bus station "Phio Nam" – buscompany "Minh Phuong" runs at least 4x per day (6:00, 9:00, 11:00 and 14:00). The distance is 63 kilometers and the bus takes a bit longer than 2 hours. Cost: 50,000 VND. You stop in the small (and empty) bus station of "Aluoi". The bus returns at 6.8, 10 and 12

hours. There are no buses to "Huong Ha". 

 

Hue - Huong Hoa (Khe San town)(2014): the bus to the north (Dong Ha) runs from the station "Phia Bac" which is a few kilometers northwest of the citadel. Local bus no. 1 goes to this station. Frequent busses go to "Dong Ha" (for example at 10:00) and the costs are 45,000 VND. Duration is 1.5 hours.

 

From "Dong Ha" there are frequent minibuses from and near the station to "Lao Bao" which is on the border with Laos. The price is variable but I think it’s about 40,000 VND. Both cities are 63 km apart and the journey takes an hour.


  • Name: "Binh Duong star" hotel

Address: 41 / 1Ngo Quyen str

Price: 150,000 VND (single)

Phone nr. : 054-3831996

Email: binhduong2@dng.vnn.vn

 

Content:

There are two hostels of which this is "BD star" but there is also a name that looks like a number 2. Nevertheless, this hostel is located in a small alley near the busy intersection of Hanoi street and main street "D. Huong Vuong ". It is within walking distance of the two bridges over the "Perfume river" and the citadel, but also near the "cozy" center with restaurants and shops. It is very quiet because it is located in a narrow side street with trees. Downstairs is a very small lobby where the reception desk is – there’s Always someone there behind the counter and you can buy a drink. There is a narrow staircase leading up to where I had a room on the fourth floor. A small balcony, two chairs and a table, TV, fan, a large shower with hot water and a sink. Clean towels every day and a clean up. Good WIFI, very quiet and a perfect view. It is clean, tidy and friendly young staff with tips, advice and a map of the city. There is nothing wrong with this hostel.



see also: