Travel Stories - Sri Lanka

"adam's peak"

introduction

After a couple of hours of sleep, my travel alarm goes off! It’s about two o’clock at night. The idea to put it off and sleep further is very tempting, but first, people will not understand it and secondly it has to be a big adventure. Five minutes later, there is indeed a knock on my door that it is time to get up. I dress warmly and walk towards the eatery of the hostel which is already open, or is still open. I buy a piece of cake just in case. Here in total darkness, I wait for the many pilgrims who are going to make the same trip to the peak of the "Adam" mountain. Hopefully I can walk with them towards the foot of the mountain. I wait and wait but there are only a few cars passing by. After waiting half an hour, it is now half past three, I decide to go alone and say goodbye to the owner. In the darkness of the night I first walk to a parking lot where I fortunately see some other people. I get talking to a French couple and their Sri Lankan friend and walk with them.

Towards the peak

Why should I do this for god’s sake I ask myself when I look at my watch and see it’s 3 o’clock at night standing at the foot of the mountain. The name "Adam's Peak" would hit the place where Adam put his first foot on earth from heaven. "Sri Pada", or holy footprint, suggests that Buddha left a footprint here when he was on his way to paradise. Or maybe "Samanalakande", the mountain where butterflies go to die. Finally, there are stories that an early apostle of India "St. Thomas "or even the Indian God" Shiva "left a footprint here. No matter which story or legend you believe, the peak has attracted thousands of pilgrims each year for over more than 1.000 years. The start of the route is not that steep and there are few pilgrims, even fewer tourists. I notice many closed stalls. Is it not the season to walk? In the twilight we pass some tea plantations and now we are passing from the opposite direction to many elderly local pilgrims who greet us warmly. They are on their way back. Should I have started walking in the evening? There are boulders on the route and it is easily accessible; we see a dagoba, Buddha statues and we pass a gate. Suddenly there are stone steps and we stop a number of times because the French woman has to catch her breath; she already indicates that she will not finish the walk to the top. On a plateau a number of restaurants are open and we decide to order a cup of tea and take a rest. Now I hear that the French couple and the boy stay here and I will go on alone. I feel good and speed up to make up for some time because I’ve got a long way to go.

The illuminated snake

The stairs become steeper and steeper while getting closer to the top. It’s still a long way and if you look in the distance you can see a snake of lights on the route to where I want to go . There are some light bulbs along the road and the moon is clear so it’s not too hard to see where you have to go. Also, more and more Sri Lankan people are coming down the stairs; often barefoot, packed and the elderly are supported by younger family members or friends. A number of stalls are now open and besides souvenirs you can also order tea that goes well on such a climb in the middle of het night. It is still a long way and when I walk next to a somewhat older American, we decide to tune our strengths together and walk up together. The last piece is very heavy although it is a beautiful sight with clouds and mountains in darkness. An almost mystic sight.

The stairs in front of us become steeper and narrower and I am happy when the end is approaching - the top! At the top, all the stairs are occupied by hundreds of mostly local pilgrims. Thick packed and wrapped in they sit close to each other to keep warm and some are asleep. We have to walk further to the small temple which is in the central part of the plateau. And then suddenly the sun rises, the moment everyone is waiting for. It reminds me of the pilgrimage in Egypt close to the St. Catherine Monastery when everyone started singing at the sight of the first rays of the sun. Suddenly it’s ligth and you can see what you have traveled and where you are – high mountains in the distant surroundings, forests and the big lake where I came by bus yesterday. It is light, everyone takes their stuff and now you only see how tired everyone is including myself. The wind starts to blow and people get ready to start the journey back to the foot of the mountain. It is insistent on the stairs. I first walk around the plateau and remember that there is a bus at half past eleven; if I miss this I have to stay an extra day here.

Running down-ers

The decline is very heavy; an attack on your tired knees and it is treacherous; you think this does not cost strength, but I do feel the fatigue in my legs. They become heavy and at times they vibrate completely and shake. I have to take more rest. And then there are also the young Sri Lankese who come running down - reminds me of Peru and Nepal. I now almost have to be there; no here is the dagoba pass. My knees nod and I realize that I have walked down like a madman again. The stalls are now as good as all open and sell lots of souvenirs and it looks like everybody is looking at my red tired face. And although the wind is treacherously fresh, I have taken off my sweater because I am sweating. From the opposite direction, a whole group of tea pickers arrive armed with a long thin stick and a large now empty tea bag is tied around their heads. When I am finally back in my room I immediately take a hot shower so that my legs come back to life and I quickly repack my bag. I check out and catch the bus at half past eleven to "Hatton" and I am satisfied in the bus. But it was a close call.