Travel Stories - South Africa

In the burning heat of the bright sun I walk a long stretch on a pavement along the highway towards Gansbaai to recognize the tourist coastal path again at "Die Gang". Many benches stand here to enjoy the high waves that break on the rocks here. I peak over the waves to see something big not nothing. Also I ask some tourist with binocular if they saw something. Hermanus is known as the mating area of the Southern Cape, a large whale species. The village even has a whaling company, of of someone blows in the whale-watching season (August to October) on a big horn and shows where the whales can be seen. Unfortunately I did not hear the handset today but it is almost December. The landscape is as in the dunes with us in the Netherlands and behind it is a row of very expensive and modern houses built. Sometimes I see some old Dutch Cape architecture in between. At Kwaalwater I come across a small bridge and take a look at one of the information boards. Here "Moby Dick" would be buried where I have serious doubts about. I come along beaches where people are sunbathing and further down a number of people are swimming. Between the beaches I walk under some hedges of dune bushes where it is nice and cool. It is almost half past three when I finally arrive at the restaurant "Dutchies" which is a popular place where many tourists come to eat or drink a glass or snack. I find a place under a parasol and order a cold Windhoek beer for 22R. You could take a tuk tuk from here, but I do not see the tuk tuk's and I do not want to pay so much money for a short ride home. I decide to walk back to the hostel.

I am picked up by a van and notice how quiet everybody is while there are enough people. It’s time to go on tour! Before I step into the van, I quickly took two pills against seasickness. It would be a shame to see the white shark as pale and sick as anything. In about 45 minutes we drive past Gansbaai and stop in a tiny harbor town on a parking lot in front of a building. Now I know why they call this "little bay" (kleinbaai). The paperwork is arranged in a room and there is a cold buffet for lunch. The boat arrives on a trailer and after we have boarded we sail in about 45 minutes to the place in the Indian Ocean where the cage is waiting for us already in the water. While the cage is attached to the boat we get a briefing about the cage diving, the white shark and everything that comes with it. There are a lot of great white sharks here, explains our guide due to a large seal colony out here. They are here all year round and the hunting time is mainly early in the morning and in the late afternoon. For us it makes no difference because we do not have live bait. The sharks migrate constantly and today's shark is probably another that will show up tomorrow. There is someone who throws bait off the boat and there is a big hook in the water, 5 meters from the cage with a dead big fish head. The first five victims to be put in the cage are offered water shoes and a pair of goggles.It’s time to go!

After the first two groups of five have seen almost nothing, I climb in the cage. I zip up my "wetsuit" as high as possible, put on my goggles and clamber into the cage at the side of the boat. The water is cold but I had expected much worse. The instructor says that we have to stand with our legs on the back and hold the red inner railing with our hands. If you don’t they take you out of the cage and you’re adventure is over. The moment a shark is spotted, the guys shout "dive" so that you can push yourself down and look towards the rope where the "bait" is hanging. Because the shark sees movement, almost immediately he goes after the bait he will just cross in front of the cage. The visibility is about 3 to 4 meters today and we are lucky today – yesterday was terrible. Yesterday there was a lot more wind and the visibility was only one meter. Apparently some "soup" (with tuna, among other things) gets smashed in the water and decent fish pass in the cage and the tension rises. I feel my body tremble and I do not know if this was such a good idea. 

Suddenly "shark" is called and the adrenaline rushes through my body. "Dive", "dive", "go down" I hear and I press myself through the red handle down into the water. The water is green and I can see the gigantic beast coming towards me in the distance. When the shark comes closer, it is pulled to the bait so that it is invited closer to the cage. I'm second in the cage (in the row) and all of a sudden the animal comes as close as one meter from us. I have to go upstairs to breathe and immediately dive again. This mighty beast swims past the cage on our side and it seems as if he is going to touch the cage with his head first and after a second with his tail. Because of the stress I take my hands off the railing and then it disappears into the depth. We are coming up and our enthusiasm is obviously great. It must have been a shark of more than three meters. Later I would hear that this was probably a young female. We are expected to leave the cage and the next group goes into it. 

Even from the boat there is a beautiful but different view. The big shark is coming back and is really trying to attack the bait - she's probably hungry. We see a big fin, and the eyes of the mighty animal that comes half out of the water. Her silhouette is clearly visible when she swims around and opens the attack again. Tumult, because while the shark seems to come close, the group is replaced by another one who didn’t see anything yet. Because people do not change fast enough and others have dressed themselves again, one place remains open and the dark man next to me who apparently also works on the boat encourages me to go into the cage again. Now pressed into the corner, the big shark swings around the cage countless times and passes by on its side, making him look white and meters wide.Scared and full of adrenaline I come up and bumb my head against the upper-cage. When I go under I see the shark one more time – it seems I was at het best spot. I’m going out of the cage because I’ve seen more than enough.