Travel Stories - Egypt

"nuweiba" and "dahab"

introduction

Coming from Israel, I travelled through Taba to Nuweiba in Egypt in one shot. I arrived at a nondescript port in the city and still had to go some kilometers before I arrived at my intended beach camp. I hoped for a boat with tourists from Aqaba to my destination but nothing of this unfortunately. I decided to take a taxi as an exception (only) because it was already quite late in the afternoon. Then I arrived at “Greenbeach" - after I have checked in I threw my big bag in the corner of my wicker beach hut and walked to the water. I stepped back and measured 10 meters from the water of the Red Sea to the door of my cabin. In the evening I sit in my shorts in front of my house with a candle staring at the sea. The lights I see on the other side of the water must be Saudi Arabia.

The "colored" valley

After two days in Nuweiba (literally: "bubbling springs") and a visit to the "Catherina" monastery I arrive in Dahab. The place was founded by Israelis during the occupation of the Sinai desert, although there lived already Bedouin people in nearby oases. Dahab was a popular resort for Israeli youths during the occupation of Sinai. In the 70s it was a popular hippie place. Together with a Dutch guy I met at the monastery we travelled together by shared taxi to Mashraba - a little to the north of Dahab city - this is now the commercial backpacker area with countless hostels and nightlife.

I booked at a local agency a daytrip to one of the highlights in the area and was picked up early in the morning in front of my hostel. With a group of Western tourists and a guide we drove with two jeeps to the "colored" valley. This is located between Nuweiba and the Catherina monastery and is known for its light colored stones. The landscape is like the moon - large stones in a setting full of peace and quietness that you can not imagine coming from the tourist beach where I currently stayed. We descend into the valley with a small creepy iron staircase and start our hike. When I look at the layers of different colors of stones, I think of beautiful paintings from a museum. The walls of the valley are high and steep and it looks a bit like Petra in Jordan. It must be very impressive if you walk alone in this narrow corridor that is totally shielded of from the wind. The dry wind blows through the valley and the sun is burning while here it’s shady.

"Ain Hudra" and the dolphin of Nuweiba

Arriving at Nuweiba port we take place in a "hippie" lunch restaurant where we stop for our lunch. Suddenly we see dolphin "Helena" peddling in the harbor as she is called here. Years ago a deaf and dumb Bedouin boy Abdullah spotted a lone dolphin in the harbor and they became friends. Abdullah called the dolphin Helena and they often went swimming together. Now it has unfortunately become a tourist attraction and gold miners now ask money to swim with Helena which is kinda sad.

With a full stomach we step back into the jeeps and drive to the "white valley". This is again a colored piece of rock that once again splendidly glows in the burning sun. We drive through the desert and even try to climb with the jeep a steep sand hill to enjoy the view. Where we come up at once our other jeep has to return three times to get enough speed for a run to make it. The view over these isolated mountains and desert is impressive. Our next destination is the oasis "Ain Hudra" where a number of Bedouin live in small huts. There is a small source of water and a narrow gorge where Miriam, according to the Bible story, was struck by leprosy. She would criticize Moses and was punished by God. In a covered wicker building we drink a cup of tea and watch the children who want to draw our attention by running back and forth under the beautiful palm trees. On the way back to Dahab we drive to the strange "mushroom" rock that stands in the middle of this bare plain so we can take some pictures. It is time to go back because it is already starting to get a bit dark.

TIps & advice (2004)

There is a bus station in Nuweiba “port” where "East Delta Bus Co" runs. There are mostly taxis (shared) that drive between Nuweiba city and the port. There are regular buses between Nuweiba and Dahab. The bus station in Dahab is in Dahab city which is located about 1.5 km south of Mashraba.

Nuweiba - Dahab - Al Milga (Sint Catherina monastery): there are about 5 buses a day from Nuweiba (port) to Dahab. There would also be a bus going directly to Al Milga (the monastery) but it did not leave when I was there. Costs to Dahab are 10 EL.

Dahab - Cairo: there are about 4 daily buses to the capital Cairo. This bus takes about 9 hours (price is about EL 55).

Name: "Small Duna Camp" (Nuweiba)

Address: Greenbeach

Price: 15 EL (beach hut)

Phone nr. : 500198

Content:

Small Duna camp is a hostel with small beach huts and is located on the "Greenbeach" between Nuweiba City and Nuweiba Port (harbor). The huts are very basic but are beautifully situated on the beach a few meters from the sea. On the other side of the road are the toilets (very basic) and a large hut where you can sit on the terrace (on cushions at the floor) and eat something. It is very quiet there. The complex is led by a local Bedouin family (Mizena tribe).

Name: "Venus" camp (Dahab)

Address: Mashraba

Price: 10 EL (single cabin)

Phone nr. : 20 0069 640838

Content:

In 2004 this is a new place in the middle of the commercial backpacker section "Mashraba"; this lies between "Assalah" and "Dahab city" (bus station). They have basic huts in a sort of garden with sand without their own toilet / shower but in the building there are also rooms for rent.

TRIPS to the desert:

There are numerous travel agencies, hostels and restaurants offering tours to the coloured valley in the Sinai desert between Nuweiba and Sint Catherina monastery. Options are daytrips, trips of several days, with a jeep or van or even with camel or walking (hiking). Make sure you find a reputable organization (too cheap is not good) and ask for a good car (jeep) and an English speaking guide. Ask (on paper) what is included - such as lunch, guide, possible entrance, water and a cup of tea in the afternoon.

TOUR "colored mountains":

Timeframe: 08:00 - 19:30
Where: collected and returned to travel agency
Price: EL 110 p.p.
Persons: 8x (in 2 jeeps) + guide

Content:

Colored valley (2 hours)
Nuweiba (lunch)
White valley (1 hour)
Oasis "Ain Hudra" (tea)
Mushroom rock

Don’t forget:

Water, snack, money (change), sunscreen, hat, small towel or something, sunglasses, cardigan or vest).

Travel Stories - Egypt

"nuweiba" and "dahab"

introduction

The "colored" valley

"Ain Hudra" and the dolphin of Nuweiba

TIps & advice (2004)

see also:

LANDEN: