Travel Stories - Turkey

mt "nemrut"



introduction


It is still early when I arrive at the bus station in the city that’s called "Kahta". This is perfectly located in the center of the city and my intended hostel is around the corner. I check in the hostel, throw my stuff away in the corner and go directly outside again to do some research how I can best get on mountain "Nemrut" from here. I come tot he conclusion that the tours I find from the travel agencies are far too expensive (because I am alone they ask 60 million for the tour) and I hesitating what to do. Then I speak to a man who wants to bring me this afternoon, but only to the top and he does not join me as a guide; first I have to go to "Karadut" with the public "dolmus" which departs at 14:00 from there "which is much closer to the" top "than this city and from there he will bring me the last part, since there is no longer regular public transport . Now that I have heard this it is necessary that I check out again and try to ask my money back. This is Turkey, not the Netherlands and it is not a problem.


Karadut


The dolmus drives over hills and makes many curves. It’s on his way to the village of "Karadut" quite high in the mountains. The minibus stops in front of the guest house where I walk straight in to book a room. Sheep are led over the road and the shy shepherd (which later turned out to be a woman) turns his head away to look back curiously later on. It is now half past four and in about half an hour I will be picked up by the man I spoke to in "Kahta". He’s in time and we drive out of the village and leave the last row of trees behind us. I hear the wind blowing like crazy and I realize how cold it can be here in the winter - the driver tells me that you can only come here in the summer because otherwise there is a gigantic pack of snow. The view is a wasteland of rocks and stones. No more and no less. The road leads higher and higher and eventually after three-quarters of an hour it turns into a small parking lot with a sign. We are at 2150 meters altitude and I have to pay an entrance ticket myself (7.5 million); the driver is waiting for me here (I have not paid anything yet, so he will definitely wait for me). We have agreed about 2 hours waiting but I have no idea how much time I will spend here, of course.

History - "Nemrut Dagi": 

From the year 250 BC. this region was a fertile borderland between the "Seleucid" kingdom (the successor of the great empire of Alexander the Great in Anatolia) on the one hand and the "Parthen" kingdom on the other. In 80 BC. when the Romans moved more and more eastward and came into the "Seleucid" kingdom, the "Mithiridates" who had a good relationship with the Romans crowned themselves King. They built their capital near the current "Kahta". The new king felt so great because he was a descendant of, on the one hand, the founder of the then still large "Seleucid" kingdom in the west and the old Persian king "Darius I" from the east. When the king died, his son took over the honors. This would immediately lead to a non-aggression treaty with the Romans and indicate that he would like to serve as a buffer zone for the aggressive Parthes in the east. He maintained good relations with both sides and was thus able to live in great wealth. With this wealth he had the great temples and cemetery built for him on the mountain "Nemrut". King "Antoichus" considered himself to be divine and immortal by all his wealth and traditions at one point, and his old ally would lay the Romans together with the Parthes. A few years later he was put aside by the same Romans and his "Kommagene" empire now came under Roman rule. This would remain for years, sometimes under a "vassal king", later as part of a Roman province.

Immediately I walk to the top of the hill where the wind blows very hard and my breath seem to stop. You can still see that two large bites have been taken from the original mountain and a small new (grave) mound has been created from rubble stones. I now see as I walk along the edge of a stone path where the wind has free play the first images that the mountain is so well known for. In the 50 meter high burial mound in the shape of a pyramid, King Antiochus Theos was probably buried 40 BC. In front of the burial mound is a complex with colossal stone sculptures by King Antiochus himself, flanked by two lions, two eagles and several Greek, Armenian and Persian Gods, such as Zeus, Tyche and Mithras. Around the burial mound are the two meter high stone heads of the statues that have fallen off due to various earthquakes in the area.  

 

Wonderful to see but still I think of gnomes or point hats and even for a moment at the "Klu-Klux-Clan". You can not come to close because everything is blocked off by a silly piece of rope that appears on all photos and films. They picked the statues of the eagle and the lion who are – supposedly – the strongest animals in the air and on land. It’s not so remarkable that this very impressive site is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Strange is that the site was only (re)discovered by a German in the 19th century when he was hired by the Ottomans to exploit trade routes. Only in 1953 the excavation of the site started. It is cold, there is a lot of wind but I did not want to miss this. What I am wondering is whether anyone ever tries to take a look in the burial mound as happened in Egypt at the pyramids there. I take another look around and decide then to walk back tot he minibus who drops me again at the hostel. 



tips & advice (2004)


From Karadut where there is no bus nor dolmusstation two vans are leaving per day. It just drives through the village to pick up people. The morning van arrives in Kahta around 09:00.

 

Karadut - Kahta - Siverek - Diyarbakir: if you take the bus to Kahta (from Karadut) at 08:00, then you can travel to Diyarbakir via Siverek (where you also go on the ferry), you can arrive just after the lunch period with a bit of luck.


  • Name: "Karadut pension"

Price: 10,000,000 (single)

Phone nr. : 0416 737 2169

 

Content:

It is a kind of big farmhouse with a large yard where you can camp. Very friendly people with a flexible attitude. There are a number of simple 1 and 2 person rooms and a restaurant downstairs where breakfast is served. This is inclusive. If you call in advance they will get you in "Kahta" for free; in addition, you can arrange tours to "Mount Nemrut" here.



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