Travel Stories - Thailand

"nan"

introduction

The four of us leave early in the morning with a totally open tuktuk that takes us from the mainroad close to our hostel to the bus station. Completely muted by the cold we arrive and we say goodbye as I'm the only one going to "Pithu". There I change to the bus to "Nan" and when I see the big turn to "Chang Mai" I expect that from now on it it’s remoteness and jungle what I see. I hope for muddy roads, narrow paths, people in traditional clothes and small cabins where people live in. None of this; great good asphalt roads, population in Western clothing and even illuminated advertising. And the trees are as bare and brown. Not so strange, if you know that it has not rained for 3 months here in the region. With another couple we are driven to the center of Nan with a pick-up van and I ask if I can go to the information center. What I am looking for is mainly information about visiting mountain peoples which I despite the modernity I see still want to do here.

NAN - history:

The city "Nan" was completely plundered when the Burmese arrived here in 1558. The inhabitants were taken to Burma to function as a slave. When the Burmese left West Thailand in 1786, an independent dynasty was installed here until 1931, when the area gave up its sovereignty to Bangkok. The province of "Nan" houses unique mountain tribes such as the "Thai Lu", "Htin" and "Khamu" compared to the northernmost part of Thailand. The "Hmong" and "Mien" were mainly recruited in the city of Nan by the Communist "Pathet Lao" from Laos to fight the Americans in Vietnam and would be rewarded with their own kingdom.

Hill tribe "Htin":

The population of the “Htin” live in groups of 50 in small villages around Nan and the border with Laos. They are good hunters but now often live as farmers with their cattle or on land. Often their houses are built with woven bamboo and stand on wooden poles and sticks. Metal is out of the question as well as nails; these are for the "Htin" taboo. They are known for their ability to weave bamboo; from doormat to musical instrument. They have their clothes made at the "Mien", a neighboring mountain tribe. Some 3000 Htin people live in the mountains.

"hmin" people

I get up early the next day looking for a motor rental company and drive one hour later, after I have left my passport, on a semi-automatic scooter out of the city. From the Australian owner I have already heard this morning that if you want to see some authentic clothing the best you have are the "Hmin" people. This is usually in the form of a "V" form around the neck. It will be rare so you have to pay attention; the rest of the clothing is western and most people will wear the same clothes as you. The towns and villages are pretty well marked on my route towards "Ban Bo Kleua". The ride is beautiful and I feel free and good, especially when in some villages the residents look up at me and wave at me on my scooter I do not see traditional clothing, but I saw have some houses with big horns above the door. In "Ban Bo Kleua" which means salt, I get off and walk to where the "Htin" village is famous for; the extraction of salt! There are some plates in the water where the salt is extracted, and when I walk around I see someone walking into one of the bamboo huts and he waves me over to follow him. In a hut we look together at a big pot of salt. The salt with water is heated here in a large pan and then of course the salt remains over what is kept further in large barns.

"Doi Phu Kha"

After a noodle soup at a very local joint in the small village I get back on my scooter again and drive through the beautiful nature park "Doi Phu Kha" where I stop a few times to enjoy the beautiful nature and sweeping views. There seem to be many mountain people living in the park ("Hmong", "Htin", "Mien" and "Thai Lu") but unfortunately I don’t meet and/or see anybody or anything. In the next village I see a gasoline-station and put my tank half full. I have to go definitely have to make my way back to Nan otherwise I’m too late and have to pay extra. Just in time I deliver my scooter and get a "shot" whiskey offered by the staff that I eagerly accept. Walking back in the direction of my hostel I realize that this was the best way to do what I wanted to do today and I don’t regret it at all.

Walking back I realize that if I still want to see the big temple I have to hurry up. Immediately I go to "Wat Phumin" which luckily is still "open" and is the most important temple in the city. The murals are like pictures from a picture book and show life at the time of making; At this late hour there is no one left and I wander around on my bare feet to take everything into my mind. After looking around I see the monks sweeping the leaves from the courtyard and I realize I’m hungry and start to look for a nice restaurant.

tips & advice (2009)

The Nan bus station is about 500 meters southwest of the center.

Nan - Chang Rai: there is a daily bus from Nan to Chang Rai; it leaves at 09:00 in the morning and costs about 150 Baht. The journey takes between 5 and 6 hours.

Name: Hostel "Nan Guesthouse"

Address: 57/16 Th Mahaprohm

Price: 250 Rp (single)

Phone nr. : 05477 1849

Website: www.nan-guesthouse.com

Content:

Perfect location in the center of the city within walking distance of the biggest sights of the city is this nice hostel. You have to search for it because it’s almost hidden away deep in a long and narrow neighbourhood. The large house has a garden, a very large but friendly dog and is very clean. Shiny tiles and a large but largely empty room. There is a (hot) shower and toilet in the room and a large double bed. It is quiet and relaxed but do not expect much from the owners that you do not see for the most part. There is a small local restaurant on the other side of the alley where you can eat. There are menus and tour guides everywhere, but it is more difficult to get a tour or food here than elsewhere.