Travel Stories - South Africa

"eshowe"



introduction


Yesterday I was just in time to get a campingspot through the required information office and pay. After that I put my minds on all the staff members on a trip to "Shakaland". Without success, by the way - public transport runs to the road and from there the 3 km walk turns out to be quite dangerous. I simply do not have the money for a tour or taxi ride. The “Shaka-Disney" park is already pricey enough. The other Zulu sites are, according to the ladies, too far and not worth it. After a night at the campsite I trudge back to the center and at half past seven I am back in the information center. The situation is unchanged - there called some people (well they said) but no one can or wants to bring me and the prices remain unchanged high. I stay in the hopes for a moment and then the breakfast-girl comes in with two boxes food. In the one sitting (English) scones and in the other a kind of bread balls. I ask if I can smell it and yes it is his real Dutch delight called “oliebollen”. I buy a fat ball and I don’t have toe at anymore the whole morning.


shaka's harem


After having dumped my groceries at the campsite I walk back into the heat of the sun. Yesterday I walked around the neigbourhood here or a bit but now I walk further into the "Dlinza" forest. It was here where the mighty Shaka Zulu hid his wives during the Zulu wars. It is a very beautiful area with tall large green giant trees, the foliage of which gives a wonderful coolness - it runs up faintly and then down again. A number of large houses along the road and then down the hill again. Yet I am somewhat relieved when I see the sign of the fort because this is South Africa and you always have to watch you’re steps here. Left and there is the fence. First the parking lot where a dark girl sits on a chair to keep an eye of the parking lot. I arrive at a souvenir shop where I ask the woman if I can buy tickets separately - there are several museums on the grounds. Unfortunately they want me to buy a combi ticket instead. I ask if there is also a place where I can get something to drink and that turns out to be in the traditional building of "Adam's Outpost". Inside is a wonderful place - a wooden roof, traditionally decorated with wooden tables and chairs and beautiful old black and white photographs on the wall. In the corner is an old almost Vctorian English couple completely dressed up. I look at the map and the prices are not too bad - I look at the food too, because now I'll be walking back to the center. I decide to order breakfast - eggs, toast with bacon and a glass of ice-cold lemonade because I I’m very thirsty.


The police fort


When I have all that I decide to go to the church first. It is a wooden chapel and appears to have been set up by a Norwegian missionary who was also a doctor. There are some information boards on the wall and it is reasonably decorated. On a stone wall outside I read what is on a memorial plaque; Here too there appears to have been a concentration camp with Farmers during the Boer Wars and here too people have died. Now I walk to the white clay "Nongqayi" fort with its three towers. In the courtyard there is now grass but was first the parade ground. Built by the English in 1883, it was used by the Nongqayi which was an escort from the police in the service of the English. Where once the stables were, walls are now placed and there is a small exhibition of agricultural attributes used by the Zulus and Britons. Then the information about Shaka's war begins with other tribes, those with the Boer, the Zulu wars, those with the British and the time after. Very interesting and there is some info that I did not know about. On the other side of the fort I walk outside where an old ship gun is rotting away and a plaque that once belonged to another (British) fort, which is now completely gone. Back in the courtyard I walk in on the other side which is also installed as a museum. There are a small model, papier-mâché dolls and a real beehive to be seen. Next to the fort stands (hopefully) an original Boer ox-wagon that almost falls apart. 

 

The modern building is, as expected, the Vulkani museum which is a collection of traditionally made Zulu stuff. Finally there would be a butterflies dome somewhere. A boy walks along and takes me the back of the complex where the dome is. He explains some things that are much more interesting than I expected. He starts with the small seeds on the different trees, shows me different butterflies, cocoons and caterpillars that still have to be butterflies. There are also two snakes living in this warm tent that reminds me of another butterfly garden I have ever been. We walk around for 15 to 20 minutes if he leaves me alone to take some pictures. Then it's time to go back. It is unfortunate that due to circumstances I haven’t been able to take much of the whole (Shaka) Zulu events that took place in this region.



tips & advice (2015)


If you take a cross-street from the main street in the centre of Eshowe you arrive at the bus and taxi station in the valley.


  • Name: "Fort Nongqayi" museum village

Address: Nongqayi Road

Price: 35R

Time: 07: 30/09: 00 - 16:00

 

Content:

Located in the

"Dlinza" forest, this beautifully restored British fort is situated in a beautiful forestry peaceful area. You buy a combi ticket at the entrance and can experience three different things; the fort itself (in this is the "Zululand Historical Museum" situated, the Vukani museum (an exhibition with all kinds of hand-made traditional (Zulu) things - pots, baskets etc. from the region) and access to the butterfly dome. There is also a perfect restaurant / eatery on site. You can walk to the fort from the town.


Opposite "George Hotel" in the centre of town is a nice breakfast and lunch cafe where you can buy tea, coffee scones etc. The nicest terrace I found myself on the grounds of the fort (see museums). Here you can enjoy a cup of coffee, tea, lunch, breakfast and a beer under the canopy on a traditional terrace. Safe and delicious between all the green.


  • Name: "Caravan Park Eshowe"

Address: Addison Street

Price: 28.50 / 34.20R (camping) with / without electricity

Phone nr. : 441141

 

Content:

This campsite is on the edge of the town at a safe walking distance from the centre. This must have been an exclusive place with a large swimming pool and lots of facilities. Now it declined but you can still camp there. It is built against the Dlinza forest where many exotic birds fly around - here is also the fort and the wooden deck above the forest. The forest is "famous" as Shaka "hid" his wives here during the Zulu wars. You will have to pay for your night in an office behind the information desk (please note that they close at 3:30 pm) although someone is walking around who is keeping a close eye on the book. He lives a meter or 50 on the hill at the edge of the campsite. Probably he has three daughters because in the evening they walk into the laundry rooms for the light, electricity and privacy. The whole campsite is surrounded by fences and there is a gate that is closed at night. It seems safe enough and there are some lampposts to light up in the evening. There are some electricity poles and also in the laundry you can charge electric devices (free). It is all very outdated but everything seems to be (still) OK, but what can you expect from a campsite where you pay less than 2 euros per night.



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