Travel Stories - Poland

"sierpnica" ("riese" project)



introduction


From "Gluszyca" we take a small minibus where we stand up with our big backpacks on our back because again it’s very crowded. We drive via "Kolce" (where we see one of the mass cemeteries of the camp workers of the camp where about to see) to "Sierpnica". I do not know if this normally happens but the driver puts us in front of the modern complex "Osowka" which consists of a restaurant including a reception and a large parking lot. This must be one of the three underground complexes that the Germans built at the end of WWII. Inside we hear that the large touring bus that is at the door is bringing a large group of young people from Germany and Poland. Another possibility for us (maybe to take a tour with the two of us) is not available. After a cup of coffee I walk outside where I meet the two (German) teachers; it seems to be an exchange program and it is fun and instructive for them if we go with the German group - I can understand it (they have a translator) and I will it translate it for Pete in English. An audio set is therefore superfluous and we must compulsorily take part in the "boat" and "historical" tour in the caves weré going to enter. 


The "Riese" project


We walk with the half (German) group to the entrance of the cave where we see the old classic car that I have seen on pictures before. From a barrack placed in front of the entrance of the cave we get handed out helmetst and we meet the Polish guide and the German translator. She explains that this is one of the three entrances and exits of this underground tunnel belonging to the "Riese" project. It is kinda chilly when we walk into the tunnel and the water splatters from the ceiling of the cave on our head. The Polish, wrapped in, is talking to the group while the translator explains it a little later in German. From 1943 onwards, the Nazis began to build underground structures (cities) of this kind and it was the intention that a whole community would live here free of bombing as elsewhere in Germany. The German (in)famous constructing company "Todt" was responsible for the construction. Again it is indicated that there are about 6 complexes in the area and that the headquarters is located in "Ksiaz", a city I have never heard of. All complexes would later be communicated with each other. Unfortunately, no documents about "Riese" have been found (perhaps all taken away by the Russians) - all the information that is available comes from the books of architect "Albert Speer". Some 14 to 28 thousand people would have worked (mainly Jews and Poles) and the foundations of the barracks are located on and next to the parking lot we just came from. 


indiana jones


We walk further into the damp cave where in some places there are large puddles on the ground. The helmet is not for nothing - some pieces are very low and you have to be careful not to hit your head against the rocks of the ceiling. We arrive at a part of the cave where you can clearly see that there were two floors of which a large part was used (or would be used) for air circulation. We also see a collection of old weapons behind a piece of barbed wire; first this was hidden under the football field but when refurbishing the fields the stuff was collected in the caves. Here we stop for the rickety boat that goes back and forth - Pete and I are the last with one of the German teachers who climb into the square boat to go to the other side. The man withdraws by means of the ropes that are on the ceiling and you have to hold on tight without loosing you’re balance; then follows a piece where you by means of wooden planks run across the water. They are zigzagging on the wet floor and the question arises what this is for - we feel like "Indiana Jones"; you have to be careful because in addition to maintaining your balance in order not to end up in the water you also have to walk with you’re head low. Iron rods have been attached to the roof so you can hold on.

Technical aspects "Osowka" 

The "Osowka" complex as part of the "Riese" project is located in the "Osowka" mountain (German: Sauferhohen) and you can reach it through a 120 meter long tunnel. Here are rooms and a waiting room and another tunnel of 450 meters long follows - the latter being 10 meters below the earth's surface. Here is another waiting area that was almost ready for use in 1945. After that a piece was created where the ceiling has collapsed, resulting in two levels. It is a square of tunnels and underground spaces, some of which are 8 meters high. Less than a tenth of this complex has been reinforced with concrete. A shaft of 6 meters wide and almost 50 meters long has been built to the surface. There is a third tunnel a bit further but it does not (yet) coincide with the other two tunnels; it is more than 100 meters long and lies 45 meters below the ground. Two dams are built inside and hydraulic equipment - for which it would come to serve is unfortunately (still) unknown.

 

Above the surface buildings, machines, a concrete elevation for transport of mine carts for different levels are present, as well as a water reservoir and a depot. The latter contained a system for heating building materials in the winter. The largest building only has a ground floor with walls half a meter thick and a roof built for camouflage. Here too a tunnel ran to the aforementioned shaft even though it was not completely finished yet. There is also a monolith full of (discharge) pipes that is galvanized in the rock - to this day no one knows where this should be served. There was a narrow monorail with tunnels from the train station in the nearby "Gluszyca Gorna" to the complex. Near the single tunnel (number 3) was a concentration camp "AL Sauferwasser" which was built in August 1944. Here mainly Jews, but also Hungarians, Greeks and Poles were present for forced labor at the complex. The evacuation of the prisoners came about in February 1945 after the front came closer. The foundations of the camp are still visible.


Disbelief


The "Riese" complex (terrain) was never found by Allied planes and was far from finished when it was liberated/taken/discovered by the Russians on 8 May 1945. Until the last day the remaining prisoners were "just" working until 18:00 like everyday and they (the last 200 men) did not believe that the war was over. Not surprising if you consider that the average prisoner stayed alive for 3 to 4 months due to the very poor living conditions and hard labor. Our translator tells us that if they were ill, they could stay in the hospital for 3 to 4 days - if they were not better then they would be killed. At the end of the tour the guide and translator are thanked and the teacher gives a speech about the incoherent past of Nazi Germany. It is 1.5 hours later when we come out of the tunnel and return the helmet. On the way back to the parking lot we talk a little further with the translator and hear that there was never the intention here to produce (secret) weapons.


Prisoners barracks


In the restaurant complex we wash our hands and thank the teachers that we were allowed to go with their way, we also fill our water bags. In the parking lot we see the foundations of the barracks of the camp, but also the beginning of a walking route (probably only through the forest) back to "Gluszyca". To the people here we tell them that we are going back on foot knowing that it is not so difficult to find a place for the night here. In the forest we find many other foundations of prisoners barracks but want to find a suitable place as quickly as possible. We find a spot between two paths (a road and walkway) with tall trees and in the middle a winding stream where it ends a bit. First a cup of tea while we check out the lot here - if it turns out to be very quiet and deserted, we put up our tents when suddenly a car passes by. We assume that this is an employee of the museum that we have just visited. It is quite chilly in the forest when we drink our wine and break up around 22:30. It is our last evening in the forest of this first half of this trip.



tips & advice (2014)


When you leave the museum, buses leave from the intersection of the museum in the village "Sierpnica" - there is no

bus stop but just raise your hand. Walking to this intersection is about 1 km and will take a 15 minutes.

 

Gluszyca - Wroclaw: in the center of "Gluszyca" a minibus goes to Wroclaw every so often - duration is about 2 hours and costs are 15 Ztl.


  • Name:wild campingspot "Osowka"

 

Content:

If you take the footpath from the museum (cave) "Osowka" towards the village "Gluszyca" you walk straight through a forest with very tall trees. You will sleep between the concrete foundations of the old prisoners barracks in a very open but dark forest and some bushes. In the middle a nice stream flows where you can sleep well at night. There is a path on both sides - a narrow forest path on one side, while on the other side a wide (car) path runs. There is a bus from the village "Gluszyca" to "Sierpnica" but it does not go regularly.


Spending time: TOUR

The tour lasts one and a half hours and you can walk around the grounds, drink a cup of coffee in the restaurant and view some souvenirs in the little shop. Of course you can also take a walk through the forest(recommended) and/or view other caves and tunnels of the "Riese" project in the area.

 

TIPS:

Take some warm if you take a tour because it is pretty cool - if you are not sure that you will come across dry, I would also bring a few clean and dry socks just in case. You get a flashlight but of course you can also bring one yourself. If you do not want to put on a dirty helmet, put on a hat for underneath.



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