Travel Stories - Poland

"marlbork", "torun" and "lodz"



introduction


After a fairly short bus ride from Gdansk we arrive in the much smaller city Marlbork.We check in a hostel and walk back to the gigantic red Teutonic fort "Marienburg", where the city of Marlbork is best known for. On a board we notice that if we go for a tour at half past six tonight we pay half the price and we decide to come back later. The weather is nice and we find a large terrace on the river under some nice tall trees with wooden furniture. I take needle and thread and try to make my sandal while ordering a beer and eating a plate later.


Capital of the Teutonic knights


Then it is time to go back to what was the headquarters of the Teutonic order for 150 years, and we are looking forward to going into this huge building that was destroyed in the WWII for 60%. It was used by the Nazis as a final stop for National Socialist pilgrimages from 1933, undertaken by the Hitlerjugend and Bund Deutscher Madel. In 1934 an amphitheater was added on the east side of the castle. Interesting to know is that "Marienburg" was used as a blueprint for the order castles of the German Third Reich (Ordensburg Krössinsee, Ordensburg Vogelsang and Ordensburg Sonthofen). 

 

We walk past some dressed up knights with their white robes and black crosses, cross the castle bridge and see the bars and the big door that the enemy had to keep outside. We imagine ourselves in the Middle Ages with black and white floor tiles, veranda’s, a well, and inner gardens. For more than a century, the castle has been the headquarters of knights of the Teutonic order who have nowadays a cult status. The complex was built in parts (from the year 1274) - first the "high castle" and later the middle and lower part. Surrounded by three rings of defense belts reinforced by basements and towers. The defenses were once conquered - by the Polish army in 1457 during the 13-year war when the strength of the knights was already vading. The German Order then moved its administrative center to Koningsbergen in what was now called East Prussia. Remarkable and striking is the fact that many Dutch people were "members" of the Teutonic order and that there was even a small town in Poland that was then called "Prussian Holland". Harnesses, large beer and dining tables, frescoes and a chapel that now looks more like a ruin. When the Prussians took over during the first division of Poland, they broke parts of the castle that were no longer of military use.


Torun and Lodz


The next day we take from Marlbork the train towards the old town of "Torun", south. After we have put our big bags in a safe at the station we walk towards the centre of the city which is especially known for its Gothic buildings. I’ts listed on the UNESCO world heritage list with a good reason. We look at the old town hall in the old town, the image of the Polish Pied Piper from Hamelin "Janko Muzykant" with the difference that these are frogs instead of rats. Finally we admire the house and the statue of "Copernicus", the famous star scientist who lived here. It is actually unimaginable that this very city was completely unharmed from the war after all the destruction we have heard in other Polish cities. Torun also fell into the hands of the Teutonic knights and only returned to Polish hands after WWI. After our lunch we walk back to the station and later arrive in the second city of the country: "Lodz" which we learn to pronounce as "woetsj".



The ghetto of Lodz 

When German troops occupied Łódź in September 1939, the city had a population of 672,000 people, more than a third of them Jews. Łódź bordered the Warthegau region of the Empire and was renamed Litzmannstadt in honor of a German general, Karl Litzmann, who in 1914 operated with German troops (successfully) in the area. As such, the city had undergone a process of arization: the Jewish population would be deported to the General Government and the Polish population would be significantly reduced and transformed into a slave laborers' population.

 

The ghetto that would be temporary built in the northern (old) part of Lodz was where most of the Jews lived. Bridges were applied to the various parts where, among other things, trams drove underneath. Two German police units patrolled the ghetto and a Jewish police force was led by an autocratically-led Jewish Council. Any contact between the Jews in the ghetto and people out there was strictly forbidden. Contacts with people outside the ghetto were also affected by the fact that Łódź had a 70,000 strong German minority loyal to the Nazis. In other ghettos throughout Poland, a thriving underground economy developed between the ghetto and the outside world on the basis of the smuggling of food and manufactured goods. In Łódź. However, this was practically impossible and the Jews were completely dependent on the German authorities for food, medicine and other vital supplies. The special situation of the Łódź ghetto prevented expressions of armed resistance that have become synonymous with the last days of the Warsaw ghetto, that of Wilna and Białystok, and other ghettos in occupied Poland. Rumkowski's presumptuous autocracy, the failure of attempts to smuggle food, and therefore weapons, and the belief that productivity would bring survival, excluded any attempted armed uprising. To put the situation even further into focus, a special auction was created as the only legal tender. After the deportation to the ghetto was completed on 1 October 1940, the “judenfrei” (free of Jews) city was declared. Because many Jews had fled the city, the population of the ghetto after its establishment was 'only' 164,000. In the years that followed, Jews from Central Europe were deported to the ghetto, even as far as from Luxembourg; there was also a small Roma population resettled (Porajmos).

 

Heinrich Himmler called for the final liquidation of the ghetto in 1943, when a handful of employees had to move to a concentration camp outside Lublin, while the armament minister Albert Speer argued for the ghetto to continue as a source of cheap labor, which would certainly be necessary. now that the tide of war was against Germany. In the summer of 1944 it was finally decided to gradually liquidate the rest of the inhabitants of the ghetto. From 23 June to 5 July, approximately 7,000 Jews were deported to the Chełmno death camp where they were murdered. On 15 July 1944 the transports were interrupted for two weeks because, due to the advance of the Soviet troops, the Chełmno facility was dismantled and moved. As soon as the Soviet front troops approached, it was decided to take the remaining Jews, including Rumkowski (leader of the Jewish Council), on transport to Auschwitz, and to liquidate the ghetto. On August 28, 1944, Rumkowski and his family were murdered in Auschwitz. Some Jews were left in the ghetto to clean up, some fled. Only 877 Jews were left when the Soviet army liberated Łódź on 19 January 1945. It is estimated that 10,000 of the 204,000 Jews and a dozen Roma who passed through the ghetto survived.

The tram takes us to the north of the city near where the Jewish ghetto began in WWII. We went to two hostels but unfortunately they were full and we are gambling at a campsite that we have seen in our guide in the south of the city. We did not have such a high opinion of what is sometimes called the ugliest city in Poland and this does not really help. It is already starting to get dark when, after another long tram ride, we see the illuminated sports complex what would be next to it. Noteworthy is that you buy tickets here on time instead of distance. We walk the entire complex and finally find a sign for a house with reception on it but it is in the scaffolding and we hear from a very drunken guard that the campsite has ceased to exist. On a vacant lot, we pitch our tents for the night and hope for the best. Our night in Lodz. 



tips & advice (2009)


The bus and train station of Marlbork are located next to each other on a kilometer to the east of the center (and castle) of the city.

 

Marlbork - Torun: there are about 4 to 5 trains a day. Price is 17 Zloty and the ride takes about 2.5 hours. The Torun train station is located 2 km south of the center while the bus station is about 100 meters north of the historic city.

 

Torun - Lodz: there is certainly a bus a day to Lodz. Price is 36 Zloty. Lodz has three important train stations; Fabryczna, Widzew and Kaliska of which Fabryczna is the main station. The bus station is also nearby.


In Marlbork you can sit next to the castle on a terrace on the riverbank; you can perfectly drink a beer here but also eat

something.


  • Name: Hotel "Pokoje Goscinne Szarotka" (Marlbork)

Address: Ul Dworcowa 1a

Price: 35 ZL (single room - excl. Shower and toilet)

Phone nr. : 055 612 1444

 

Content:

A lovely cozy room decorated in an old fashioned style and for a great price. The shower and toilet are in the hallway of this old house but this is a great spot to stay for a day (to view the castle) and to return in the evening - at home. In addition, it is next to the train station so you can sleep in the morning till late. The woman could be a bit more friendly that would make it perfect.



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