Travel Stories - Poland

"lublin" (and "madjanek")



introduction


Yesterday we arrived by bus from the Polish Zamosc in Lublin, a very important industrial, administration and cultural center. After a short walk in the center and bus station we return to our hostel and spend most of our time in the shared cozy living room of our residence for tonight.


on our way to the camp


The next day we take the trolley bus outside the citycentre (outskirts) where we already see the watchtowers from far way. They are placed next to the gigantic lump of stone that serves as a memorial. The road we were passing by was during the war an important route for the German army towards the Eastern Front and in the autumn of 1943 also one for the German retreat. When we get off, we also see the barracks and "the white house" of this notorious concentration camp "Madjanek". The camp was not hidden at all like most concentration camps. First we see a film in the museum of the camp and then along a row of watchtowers and double barbed wire, which later came under power in the war, to the mausoleum. It seems that all ash collected from the death of the camp is preserved in this mausoleum. Next to it is the crematorium with a room where all the deceased were inspected, among other things, prosthetics of gold teeth. There is an execution hall, sarcophagus, ovens and an administration room where now a truck stands where on top the dead bodies were transported. There is also a "chassis" of a truck where corpses were stored before they entered the incinerator. Through another so-called rose garden we walk to the edge of the camp where we read on a plaque that there were several potholes where people were thrown into. Some are only half closed and it also says that around 18,000 people have been shot dead before they closed the pit - more than in any concentration camp.

Madjanek concentration camp 

On September 18, 1939, the Nazis entered the city of Lublin and in the summer of 1941, by order of Heinrich Himmler, began construction of the Madjanek concentration and extermination camp. First it was decided to build the camp at the cemetery "Lipowa", after which it was decided to build the camp outside the city of Lublin near the village "Madjan Tatarski". The camp was divided into 10 zones with 20 barracks and 3 gas chambers but would in the future count over 250,000 prisoners. This made the camp the largest in total behind Auschwitz. Among other things tombstones from the Jewish cemetery in Lublin were used to finish it. The camp was originally intended as a prisoner of war camp and the first prisoners were 5,000 Russian prisoners of war. Afterwards, Jewish Poles were also brought from Lublin. From the year 1942 the camp was used as an extermination camp for Jews from many European countries. Initially, the victims were executed in the nearby forest where they were buried in mass graves. Later they were often gassed, first by carbon monoxide, then with Zyklon B though the executions and hangings continued too.

 

Before the crematorium was built, the bodies were burned by placing them on car chassis in the open air. "Aktion Erntefest" was started in November 1943 and aimed to accelerate the destruction of the Jews. This is because in the camps "Sobibor" and "Treblinka" uprisings occured and the Nazis were afraid that they would jump to other camps. The action costed 42,000 Jews' lives. They were thrown into mass graves, dug by the victims themselves. The documentation that should indicate the number of victims have been destroyed by the Nazis, as in other camps, before their departure. For that reason, the number of deaths is unknown but the number of 300,000 is the most acceptable. From a 2005 study this number would be significantly lower; some 78,000 including 59,000 Jews. On July 24, 1944, the Red Army arrived in the hastily cleared camp. The Nazis had only time to destroy the crematorium. The Russians foudn about only hundreds of prisoners still alive. In the same month it was already decided that the camp should be kept and that it would be set up as a museum. The Nazi leaders from the camp had already been executed by their own people; others were taken away and killed by the Russians.

The camp of Madjanek seems to be the most preserved concentration camp and that appears when we see the many barracks that are still standing. In two we can take a look as we walk past the spot where once hung the notorious gallows. We see many bunk beds of three floors high in "block 18" where normally 500 to 800 prisoners were staying. On the side are the food barracks where we see thousands of stored shoes in cages as you can also see in camp "Auschwitz". In the another house we see a model of the castle from the city made by the prisoners. An authentic SS guardhouse, "Hitlerjugend" books, cans "Zyklon B" and the well-known labels that the prisoners had to wear on their clothes. We walk into all barracks here where different themes are handled until we arrive at the gas chambers. First a "regular" shower room where the people were disinfected and then a room with two large gas bottles and two bunkers with thick metal doors including a viewing hole. They could only use this installation for a year when suddenly the Russians turned up and they had to flee in a hurry. 


the holy chapel


After a short lunch we walk up the "Czwartek" castle hill to enjoy the perfect view. It is still easy to see where the Jewish ghetto was built (the second largest in the country); the place where now the bus station is situated. The castle is for me a bit too renovated and you see that qiute more often here in the East; it was here in that same castle where in the war the "Gestapo" killed about 100,000 people. Afte rit became Polish again the Russian KGB was housed here. We are only allowed to enter in groups and when we are waiting in the sun at the square. It is a long walk through halls, stairs and upperfloors when we finaly arrive in the most beautiful place in the castle; the "holy trinity chapel", the highlight of the castle. This is real art; all walls are covered with brightly colored Biblical symbolic frescoes. They are so beautiful and so numerous that you do not know where to look first. You are not allowed to make pictures. We read that those fresco’s were made in 1418 and were found, or better said  discovered” under a layer of plaster in 1897. It took about 100 years before everything in this state was restored. You get a booklet so that you can find the correct painting and explanation on the wall. What I have never seen is that the lower limit of the drawings are indicated by painted curtains. In front of the castle we search for and find a plaque that reminds us of the fact that just before the liberation in July 1944 hundreds of prisoners were shot before the Russians arrived.

History Lublin 

In the 6th century, various settlements arose at the location of present-day Lublin, where people engaged in trade and industry. To protect the city and the rest of Poland from Tartar, Lithuanian and Ruthenian attacks from the east, the city was given orders by "Casimir the Great" in 1341 to put up a defense, such as city walls and a castle. Despite that, Lublin was destroyed many times and rebuilt after attacks by invading armies from the east. It was here in the city in 1569 that the largest state so far was located in Europe; Lithuania together with Poland. When the country was split for the third time, Lublin and the region came to Austria and for some time it was part of the Duchy of Warsaw under the rule of Napoleon. After WWI, an independent government was formed here for Poland for the first time, and even for some time the government was here.

 

Lublin became a Nazi headquarters for operation "Reinhard" - the beginning of the final solution that we would call the "Holocaust". In March 1941 the ghetto of Lublin was officially put into use but a year earlier the Jewish inhabitants of the nearby "Wieniawa" were already dumped in the city because the area was necessary to serve as a recreation park for the SS. The ghetto was located in the oldest and poorest part of the historic Jewish quarter in the old city. Lublin at the moment counted about 40,000 Jews - that was one third of the total population. Until March 1942, the Lublin ghetto was not strictly closed so that food could be smuggled from the outside inside. At the beginning of March it was divided in two parts; the so-called large ghetto was for the unemployed, while in the small the Jewish council and its institutions was established. The latter was closed with barbed wire. On 16 March, the large ghetto was surrounded by SS and Ukrainian guards and the Jewish Council demanded that some 1,500 Jews had to leave for the East for work - in reality they were taken to extermination camp "Belzec" that as built just for extermination and is situated near the border with Ukraine nowadays. On April 14 of that year the deportations stopped and the ghetto was moved to transport from there several thousand to Madjanek. In November 1942 the last group of Jews were taken to the camp. Some 250 Jews from Lublin were liberated from various concentration camps after the liberation and some were in hiding. During the Second World War, the Provisional Communist government was put up here by the Russians and at the end of 1944 it was once again the capital. In the years between the two world wars (the interwar period) 40% of the Lublin population was Jewish - the largest part died in the extermination camps in Belzec and Madjanek. According to some, Lublin is the city where the demonstrations and strikes really took of against the Communist government that eventually led to their downfal. 

We’ve been to the camp, we’ve been to the castle and now we walk back tot he old city of Lublin. Through the Jewish "Grodzha" gate we come to a small square where we can still see the foundations of a church that now has countless people walking over, busy photographing. This square is again surrounded by beautifully colored merchant houses where the paint peels off and beautiful frescoes are to be seen. Right in the middle of the central market square "Reynek" is the town hall where it belongs. It is crowded with tourists and the square is full of cozy restaurants, cafes and bars. After a beer we flee because of the crowds, the high prices and two drunk guys that want to talk to us. Wewe remember a tavern near the bus station and we’ve got the feeling we come home when we walk in; cozy, busy, warm and local! Sitting at an old oak table with tablecloth we write our diary while we occasionally slide the curtain aside to see who walks past. After a few beers we make our plan for tomorrow and walk back to our hostel. 



tips & advice (2009)


The (main) train station is about 2.5 km south of the center. Trolleybus 160 and several buses commute between them. The bus station is just north of the old town center. West of the bus station is a regional bus station for minibuses.

 

Lublin - Warsaw: you can take an "ordinary" bus to the capital; an average of 30 Zloty per ride. This takes about 3.5 hours and goes every hour. It is faster and often cheaper to take a minibus; 3 hours, 30 Zloty, every 30 minutes).


At the bus station there are a number of wooden huts where you can eat a cheap bite or drink a beer.


  • Name: Hotel "hostel"

Address: Lubartowska (extension of it)

Price: 35 ZL (dormitory)

 

Content:

From the information center we got the address of this hostel that lies just outside the center. It lies on the other side of the road (Lubatowska) in a big wide street but it is not very noisy. The price is for a 6 person bedroom and includes breakfast. The toilet and shower (there is only one) is super-large and clean, just like the room and the house or appartment.It is a really cozy hostel where the owner and his staff member sit between the guests. There is internet available.



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