Places of Interest - Morocco

"fez"

introduction

Fez is the second largest city in Morocco, after Casablanca, and is one of the most traditional cities in the country. Rabat may be the new capital and Marrakesh may have taken the baton of most tourist city, Fes is and remains the oldest of the King cities and the proud heart of Morocco.

Until the arrival of the Almoravids in 1070, Fez consisted of two medinas (or cities): Fez and al-'Aliya. Only then were the two medina's merged, and the whole became known as Fez. The well-preserved old center dating from the 12th century is largely car-free and is now on the UNESCO World Heritage List. As one of the four royal cities it is a part in most round trips through Morocco. But also the attraction of various old crafts such as the carpet industry (berber carpets, pottery (from tajines to mosaics),the old leather industry and the large number of mosques attract visitors. Next to that there is also a lively copper, gold and silver trade. roughly from three parts: the old Medina, the new city "Fes El-Jdid" and the "Ville Nouvelle" built by the French.The area around Fez is fertile and farmers from the region sell their fruit and vegetables in the city.

highlights

Fes El-Bali (old Fes):

"Bab Bou Jeloud" is the main entrance gate of the old city that leads to two main roads that go straight through the Medina. The historic city is surrounded by a city wall that still stands because of the presence of the "Ville Nouvelle" and the many cemeteries that surround the city. Within these walls there is another world with narrow alleys, shady streets and hidden corners, markets (bazaars) with small shops. Camel heads hang on door frames to indicate that there is a specialized butcher's shop here, (mule) donkeys walk with big carts behind them on special "slippers" and children help “lost” tourists in the right direction.

Near "Bab Bou Jeloud" is the beautiful "Medersa Bou Inania" - one of the city's architectural miracles. This school was built by the Mereniden between 1350 and 1357 and besides impressive plasterwork it also contains beautiful tiles and woodwork. From the roof you can enjoy a unique view over the old city. The spiritual heart of the Medina is the "Kairaouine" mosque, which is also in the middle of the old city. Built in the 9th century by Tunisian refugees, this mosque now houses some 20,000 believers. Unfortunately, non-Muslims are not allowed to enter the mosque. One of the most remarkable sights are the "tanneries" of Fes. If you walk all the way to the north of the Medina (about 150 meters northeast of the mosque - see above) you can climb a balcony for a small contribution to admire the paint tanks from above. Other special or interesting buildings in the old city are: "Medersa el-Attarine" or the art museums "Nejjarine", "Dar Batha" museum or the "Belghazi" museum.

Fes El-Jdid (new Fes):

The new Fes was built in the 13th century by order of Sultan "Abu Youssef Yacoub" and is located between the Medina and "Ville Nouvelle". Unfortunately you can not enter the old palace of the sultan but the gate is very impressive ("Dar el-Makhzen"). Part of the new Fes is "Mullah", the Jewish quarter. In the 14th century the city became a refuge for many Jews and they built their own city in the city. Today you can, for example, visit the "Habarim" or "Ibn Danan" synagogue with the associated cemetery. The "Rue de Merinides" is also special because of the very different styles of building; see the wooden and iron balconies there.

history

In 789, Idris I, the ancestor of the Idrisids, established a settlement on the right bank of the Jawhar River. His son, Idris II, built a new branch on the left bank of the barge in 808, opposite the existing site. These branches would quickly develop into two separate, walled and autonomous cities: Madinat Fez and al-'Aliya. Al-'Aliya and Fez were united by the Almoravids in 1070: the city walls that separated them were taken away. They constructed several bridges that connected the two medinas and created new city walls that united the medina's. Among the new rulers, the largest expansion and renovation of the Kairouyine mosque took place. Although the capital was moved to Marakesh and Tlemcen under the Almoravids, Fez acquired a reputation for Maliki in this period and became an important center of trade. The Almoravids came to rule over a great empire that extended from the Senegal in the south and central Spain in the north. Fez got a crucial role in this new empire as an important station in the trans-Saharan gold trade; trade routes from Black Africa, Ifriqiya and Al-Andalus came together in Fez.

Like many Moroccan cities, Fez was greatly expanded by the Almohad and the rural aspect was reduced. This was done partly by settling there Andalusian immigrants and improving the infrastructure. At the beginning of the 13th century they broke off the existing walls and laid new ones that embraced a much larger area. These walls still stand as the walls of Fez el-Bali. Under the Almohad, the city grew so fast that it was even the largest city in the world between 1170 and 1180. In 1250, Fes regained her status as the capital of the Merinids. In 1276 they founded Fez Jdid (New Fez), which became their administrative and military center. Fez reached its peak among the Merinids. It is during this period that Fez became known as an important intellectual center. The Merinids built the first independent madrassas in the city. Most important monuments in the medina, residences and public buildings date from this period. The Jewish quarter of Fez, the Mellah, was built in 1438, near the royal palace in Fez Jdid. Among the Merinids, Fez became a center of the Shurafa (descendants of the Prophet Muhammad). The Merinids were overthrown in an uprising in 1465, after which a leader of the Shurafa came to power in Fez. In 1474 succeeded the Wattasiden, a clan related to the Merinides, to get hold of Fes and most of northern Morocco. They managed to retain the power until 1559.

In 1549 the city was conquered by the Saadi but they could no longer hold the city. One of the strong empires of the early modern period, the Ottoman Empire, came closer after the conquest of Oran. In 1554 the Wattasids took over Fez with Ottoman support. This was followed by the proclamation of Marrakesh as the new capital and residence of the Saadian dynasty. The Ottomans saw the inhabitants of Morocco more as neighbors than as enemies and concentrated on the Portuguese and the Spaniards who posed a greater threat. Fez and other North African cities enjoyed relatively great independence. After Moulay Hafiz handed over control over Morocco to the French in 1912, they started building modern Fez outside the city walls from 1916 onwards. After the French protectorate, in 1956, the city had a strong outflow of residents of the extensive Jewish quarter. Many Jewish residents chose a new life in the still young state of Israel over a potentially uncertain future in an independent Morocco. Fez is nowadays to be found in every tour of (Western) tourists and the city is next to an important trade center also a tourist city.

tips & advice (2008)

About 15 km south of Fes center is the airport "Fes-Saiss" with national flights and international lines but especially charter services. Bus 16 runs from the train station to the airport. Fez is fairly centrally located in Morocco's rail network and direct connections (with or without a single switch) from the main station to Marrakech and Casablanca via Meknes and Rabat and with Oujda in the east via Taourirt. There are 4 further connections with Nador every day (2 of which are non-transferable). Tangier can also be reached directly by rail. The main bus station of "CTM" is located in the southern part of the "Ville Nouvelle". The other central bus station (for most other companies) is close to "Bab El-Mahrouk". There are plans to create a light rail system for better public transport in the city.

Fes - Chefchaouen: "CTM" runs three times a day to "Chefchaouen" from their own (bus) station. The ride takes about 4 hours and costs 60 Dinar. You can also use a different company-bus where you should probably switch at he city "Quezzane". Certainly there is a bus at 09:15 where you arrive at 12:00 in Quezzane. At 13:30 a bus will go to Chefchaouen. You arrive at 15:00.

Highly recommended we found restaurant "Marrakech" in the busy "Rue Omar El-Mokhtar". A very romantic, beautifully decorated restaurant with cushions and dark furniture. The menu looks good and the food (including tajine) is delicious. If you are in the old city (Medina) and want to eat cheap and good, you can walk to "Bab Bou Jeloud" - busy, fast but super.

Name: Hotel "Kairouan"

Address: 84 Rue de Soudan

Price: 140 (double)

Phone nr. : 035 623590

Content:

This hotel is located in the middle of the "Ville Nouvelle" in the Royal City "Fes". At 200 meters away is the local bus station with buses that drive to the old town though you can also walk. The hotel has different types of rooms (with and without private bathroom but also singles). The people are friendly and helpful, the rooms are clean and reasonable.

You should actually go to one of the many "hammams" (bathhouses) in Fes. "Hammam Mernissi" ("Talaa Seghira") is a good traditional bathhouse suitable for foreigners / tourists and is centrally located.