Places of Interest - Indonesia

"tana toraja" ("rantepao")




introduction


"Tana Toraja" is located in central and can be considered the most popular tourist attraction of Sulawesi because of its traditional population, architecture and culture (dance, language, food and drink). Most Torajanes have been converted to Christianity in colonial times, but you can say it’s a mix of ancien religious customs and Christianity. Toraja country is known for its extensive, expensive funeral rites and ancestor worship. The deceased are often 'kept' ('embalmed') for a while in or near the family's home before being placed in special caves located in steep cliffs. The houses of the population in Toraja country have a special shape too. The roofs adorned with geometric patterns are curved and resemble somewhat the other way around. This unique region of Indonesia is surrounded by beautiful nature with lots of jungle, forests, mountains and rivers. Rantepao is the largest city of "Tana Toraja" and the commercial heart of the region. Here you will find most accommodation options, restaurants and other tourist facilities such as bus stops, internet connections and tourist information agencies.


highlights


"Tana Toraja":

The small villages around Rantepao are the real sights of the "Tana Toraja" region. Besides the beautiful nature you can enjoy the unique architecture and the local people here. South Celebes still has numerous working volcanoes, bubbling mud pools, geysers and sulfur fumes. You can reach the villages by means of public transport, hiking, cycling, motorcycles, lifts and of course you can stay in many villages to taste the real atmosphere and get to know this authentic way of life. It is also possible to go with a guide. About 10 kilometers south of Rantepao lies the town of "Lemo"; this is probably the best place to see the unique "Tau-Tau" dolls. In the steep rocks in the village there are several series of "death-dolls" on so-called balconies. It is just in the "Toraja" culture that people make a doll after the death of a person and to show it to the deceased. The soul would live on like this. The largest balcony here has no less than 12 Tau-Tau dolls, often representing a family. In Londa, which lies between Rantepao and Lemo, there is still an even more extensive balcony with the same Tau-Tau dolls. There is also a cave full of skulls and bones to see here half in coffins. A lugubrious but also unique image. 

 

"Kete Kesu" is more to the southeast of Rantepao at about 6 km distance. This town is known for its woodwork and can count itself among the oldest traditional village of "Toraja-country". You can see at least 10 traditional "torangs" (ship's houses) and often there is another under construction so you get a good picture of how these are built. At the edge of the village a number of hanging coffins/graves can be seen, some with skeletons. About 20 km north of Rantepao lies the town "Batutumonga"; this is the place where you can enjoy beautiful panorama images about the "Sadan" valley. Rice fields, local people working in the countryside with buffaloes and a unique view of mountains, jungle and traditional "Toraja" houses. In the town of "Sa'dan" traditional fabrics are made in the colors black, yellow, red and white, the colors of the region.



Other interesting villages are: 

  • Sangalla: here is an old palace made of bamboo and babies are buried here in burrows of tree trunks;
  • Bolu: a local market with water buffalos where you can also buy a kriss (traditional swords).  

"Tana Toraja" is also known for its traditional weddings which often put a lot of money and time into it. Difficulty is to find out where these are held; these are often abused by tourists where they have to pay a lot of money to attend and to check if this is real or only for tourist dollars. Many water buffalo (karbouwen) and pigs are slaughtered at these festivities in honor of the bride and groom. Sometimes even with dozens at a time.



tips & advice (2004)


Rantepao does not have a bus station; the buses stop at the corner of the main street "Jalan Andi Mapanyuki" and "Jalan Niaga" where some bus companies are together. Large busses and minibuses go fairly frequently from and to here.

 

Rantepao - Ujung Pandang (Makassar): there is a night bus that departs every day at 21:00 and arrives at 06:00 in Makassar (terminal "Gowa").


You can order typical local "Toraja" dishes at various eateries in the region. One of them is "Piong Babi" - "Piong Daging Kerbau" which is buffalo meat with vegetables and spices that are put in a bamboo pipe. This must be ordered at least 3 hours in advance. You get it served with red rice ("merah") and palm wine.


  • Name: Wisla "Imanuel" (Rantepao)

Address: Jl. Wolter Monginsidi No.16

Phone nr. : +62 423 21416

 

Content:

This hostel is situated a bit outside the center but near the main road "Jalan Andi Mapanyuki", beautifully situated along the river. Unfortunately, you can not get to the river from here. Rooms are quite large and the more expensive rooms have hot showers. All rooms have large balconies with OR the view on the road in front or on the garden behind. A perfect homely and cozy hostel with friendly people.


MOTORBIKE hire:

Because there is a lot to do around Rantepao it is wise to rent a motorcycle for a day or more. It is relatively cheap and the best means of transport given the rocks, slopes, mud, amount of sights and the distances. It is offered almost everywhere; often they have a helmet for you to borrow. 

  • TIME: 08:00 - 16:00
  • PRICE: 50,000 R (all-in).
  • MOTOR: 100CC

TIP:

In July and August it is high season and crowds of tourists come to this popular region in Sulawesi. This is also the time when most funerals are performed; prices go p like crazy and the roads are full of tour buses with tourists. It is best to avoid this time if you want more quiteness and a cheaper trip.



see also: