Places of Interest - Guatemala

"copan" (HONDURAS) and "Chiquimula"




introduction


Chiquimula is a regional capital once grown by growing tobacco and money coming from mining. It is an industrial city, important for the district and is often only used by tourists as a transport hub (from and to the border with Honduras and thus for “Copan”). There is not much to do for tourists though. Copán was in classical times a city within the Mayan civilization in Meso-america. The remains of this city are located in the far west of Honduras, near the border with Guatemala and are spectaculair. Many tourist hub over the border just to see this archeological site and then return to Guatemala. 


highlights


Copan (HONDURAS):

In the area that now consists of Southern Mexico, Guatemala, Belize and the west of Honduras, the Indian tribe “the Maya” lived. They built here 50 to 70 cities, where the remains can still be everywhere to be found. Copán in Honduras occupied 24 square kilometers and had more than 25,000 inhabitants. As it was not the largest city of the empire, much has been preserved, making it one of the most important archaeological sites in Central America. The ruins that we now see on the complex date mainly from the last period of the Maya from the years of 650 to 820. The older (temple) ruins and tombs are "hidden" among the later built and some of them can now be seen as a tourist in the tunnels dug under Copan. The site consists of a main group of temples; the "inside group" (A) and the "outside groups (B and C).

"Inside" Copan (A):

If you come from the visitor center and museum, the "big square" ("Gran Plaza" or "Plaza de las Estelas") is the first large open field where you end up. This large site with a number of small low ruins contains a variety of grave columns from Copan's rulers. They date from the year 613 BC until 738. Also here is the grave of ancient archaeologist "John Owen" who died during research in the year 1893. If you continue your walk to the southeast of the complex you come on the ball-playing field ("Juego de Pelota") . This is the largest of the three fields that have ever been here and is the second largest in Central America. The field is narrow with sloping walls. On the sides are six stone parrot heads, instead of the rings that were found at other ball playing fields in Mayan cities. 

 

Nearby is the unique structure of the hieroglyphic staircase ("Escalanita de los Jeroglificos") what is the most famous monument of Copan. This is built along a 30 meter high pyramid. This staircase is lined with the longest text of the old American continent: more than 2000 hieroglyphs are carved in the 72 steps of the staircase. Here you can read the history of the Copán dynasty. Through these hieroglyphs a large part of the history of Copán could be studied. There are also sculptures that represent the various dynastic princes. The restoration of this staircase took almost a century. The Acropolis was once the most important site of the complex; here were a group of temples that served religion and politics. These were intended for the nobility and kings of Copan and this was also the place where ceremonies (including funerals) took place. Here are also the entrances to the tunnel of "Rosalila" (25m) and "Los Jaguares" (80m). Under the current complex you can see (behind glass parts of temples of Rosalila and Jaguar though the most important things are preserved in the museum.

"Outside" Copan (B and C):

You can also see the groups of temples outside of the inner-ring although they are less important. The first group is "Sepulturas"; these are located about 2 km northeast of group A. If you walk out of the actual complex it is to be reached via a well-signposted walking path. This must have been the site where the nobility and kings resided; it is estimated that some 40 to 50 buildings have stood here built for almost 200 people. The most important ruin is "Palacio de los Bacabs". Exactly in front of this complex is "Bosque" located which is located about 500 meters from the entrance of "A". Especially this part is the highlight of you’re walk when you can visit the these smaller ruins. Probably it’s much more quite also.  

 

Finally, there is the museum of Copan ("Museo de Escultura"), while in the field the most important pieces are replicas (many grave pillars) here are the original finds.The highlight is the colored replica of the found temple of "Rosalila"  which was only discovered in 1989. 

 

Other attractions:

Two kilometers past the Mayan city is a Honduran town of much later date, called "Copán Ruinas". This is a bit confusing. The village has about 6000 inhabitants and lives mainly from tourism (from the ruins). There are also many small language schools where you can learn Spanish.



history


The valley of the Copán River was already inhabited in the 12th century BC. Copan, then called “Oxwitik”, was founded in a hilly area that was fertile due to the presence of a side-branch of the Motagua river: the Copán. Unlike most other major Maya cities, Oxwitik suffered from a lack of limestone that could be used for construction. Clay was therefore used, and the little limestone that was available it was used to apply a protective layer of plaster to floors and exterior. Because the administration lay in the hands of the same dynasty (Xukpi) for a long time, the city came to a large economic boom. Military expansion and takeovers led to Copan growing among several kings in the 5th century to become one of the most important Mayan cities. Over the centuries many beautiful temples have been built in what we now call "Copan" and this would remain so until the 10th century.

From the year 1000, the number of inhabitants began to decline sharply. The cause is unknown. A theory that is accepted more and more is that extreme drought was the cause of the decline of the Maya, and thus also of Copán. It could be the case that the river dripped and that the water reservoirs in Copán could no longer be filled. There is also talk of the growing population that the city could no longer take care of itself. In addition, flooding caused by rainfall (through deforestation) would affect food production in such a way that people would starve. When in the 16th century the Spaniards set foot on land, the valley was inhabited with only a handful of farmers. When the Spaniards conquered Honduras, the city of Oxwitik had long been overgrown with the advancing rainforest. Although the place was known locally, it was unknown to the outside world that the city existed. The first European to find the ruins was a subject of the Spanish king in the year 1576. It was not until the 19th century that thoroughly research was carried out in the city. 

 

In the past, the ruins served as a stage for political backgrounds. In September 2005, the ruins were occupied for up to five days by local "Maya Chorti" Indians to show their dissatisfaction. No tourist was admitted on the complex. They would be the direct descendants of the builders of "Copan" and protested about the land reforms of the then government in Honduras. At least one leader of this tribe has been killed in the past. Some 8,000 members of this tribe live in the region under miserable conditions while handfuls of money are made from the sites.



tips & advice (2007)


The Chiquimula bus station is located in the northeast of the city center (11a Avenida between the 1st and 2nd street).

 

Copan (HONDURAS) - Copan Ruinas - (border "El Florido") - Chiquimula (GUATEMALA): after your walk from "Copan" to the "Copan Ruiines" (1.5 km) you can take a local (mini) bus here to the border (10km) at "El Florido". For this you may pay 15Q and you are 20 minutes on the road. From the border you have to change to another local bus to Chiquimula; this ride takes about 1.5 hours and may cost 25Q. For the border crossing (day visa) you pay 3 USD.

 

Chiquimula - Rio Dulce: you can take any bus towards "Flores" and then along the road (at the bridge) get off at Rio Dulce which exactly on the route. The journey takes about 2.5 to 3 hours and costs around the Q30. At 07:00 there is certainly a bus but also at 10:00 and 15:00.


If you want to stay cheap and want to be flexible for the next day to travel to another place, "Chiquimula" is the most suitable place. Besides the fact that it has many budget overnight options, it is an important transport hub in the region. That said you can also spend the night in the Honduran town "Copan Ruiines" (1.5 km from Copan site); this town lives on tourism. In El Florido on the border and 12 km from the town, there was little or no tourism facilities at the time.


Border crossing:

At the border crossing at Flores (about 1 km from the center of the town) all border formalities are completed on the Guatemala side. You show your passport, (sometimes) get a stamp and then you can continue. Sometimes (read: often) the authorities ask for a small contribution in USD. I paid 3 dollars. Sometimes they also try this again when you return. There is a bank where you can exchange Quetzal (Guatemala) money to USD or Honduras "Lemperian" money. For many you can pay with US dollars. So think of how much money you think you need for your time in Copan (Honduras). There is no bank on the Honduras side. Many money changers will meet you - they give (because there is a bank) a reasonable exchange-rate (generally). You can officially stay in Honduras for 90 days but keep an eye on the very variable formalities.

 

(Practical) information regarding copan:

There is a visitor center, cafeteria and numerous (souvenir) shops on the site of "Copan". Next to the museum there is

also a picnic area where you can have lunch. The town "Copan ruiinas" is about 1.5 km away (a walk of about 20 inutes). At the visitor center you can take a guide for between 400 and 700L (about 25 euro) taking groups between 10 and 20 into the complex for a better explanation of what all the ruins were for and what the history of Copan.

 

Entrance fees:

- 280L site (7 euros)

- 280L tunnels (2x)

- 130L museum

 

Copan is a very busy site and is located in the middle of the jungle; to get around the tour groups and the big crowds a little bit, it's best to come very early in the morning (the site opens at 8 a.m.) or late in the afternoon (until 4 p.m. the site is open). During the day it is also very hot so do not forget sunglasses, sunscreen and / or a sun hat or cap. An umbrella can also help.



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