Travel Stories - Czech Republic

"cesky krumlov"



introduction


The first construction of the city "Cesky Krumlov" in the region "South Bohemia" with its castle started at the end of the 13th century. This was already an important place for trade routes in Bohemia at that time. It was built near a fort along the "Moldau" river. After first belonging to the "Habsburg" realm, it became Czechoslovakia in 1918. Between 1938 and 1945 it was annexed by Nazi Germany as part of "Sudetenland" (due to the (in)famous treaty of Munich). President Benes seems to have been heartened by the owners of the castle, but in 1940 the castle was taken over by the Germans. After the war, the entire German population was sent away from "Cesky" and it became a total Czech city. During the Communist period the city fell into decline. Since the Silk Revolution, the city has been refurbished and this has gained momentum when it was put on the "UNESCO" World Heritage List in 1992. Český Krumlov is a destination for large numbers of tourists because of the old town and the castle. It is now one of the biggest sights of Czech Republic and Central Europe; often film recordings are made here and not without reason. Near "Cesky Krumlov" at about 10 kilometers is one of Bohemian oldest monasteries ("Zlata Koruna"). You can also visit the "Hluboka" castle or the "Sumava" national park.


The candy cane tower


I arrive by car and park my car a bit out of the centre because I don’t want to pay for parking. Then I walk towards the center to recognize the “candy stick” colored tower that appears to be part of the Krumlov castle. There I take the cobblestoned path that leads to the gate of "Budejovicka", a real castle that can be reached through a real Medieval access road - beautiful. There is a street with colored merchant houses on both sides in a beautiful old street. I have read that most of the old town and castle were built between the 14th and 17th centuries, especially in Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles. On the right side I recognize the red gate leading to an open courtyard where you have a good view of the "round" tower that I spoke about earlier. It has all the colors of the rainbow and is completely decorated with colored frescoes. I see a lost bear roaming around in the old castle moat - totally unnecessary to confine such a beast here and walk quickly inside.


The time-honored castle


There are some old (farmers) carts on the square but what I find much more interesting are the beautiful black frescoes on the walls. These are huge and go all the way to the gutter and I have seen this before in the capital "Prague" but also for example in the German city "Bamberg". The first other tourists are now also coming through the gate and I suddenly realize that this must bet he second biggest attraction in the Czech Republic. I have to hurry up a bit to stay away from all the tour groups. The castle, which is the largest in the country after Prague, lies on top of a ridge above the city and is elongated in structure - you walk up a sloping path, through a stone gate underneath some constructions of buildings through vaults and beautifully decorated ceilings. The whole castle appears to have been built in many different styles and in different eras, which of course makes it even more attractive. Inside is a baroque theater from the late 17th century. Because of "his" age, only 3 concerts are given each year. a simulated old-fashioned "candlelight" is added.


Melancholy and authentic


It is time to go to the “lower” town and I walk back the same route although I do not go through the gate but take the castle-stairs to the valley. I walk across the wooden walkway and enter a street where a woman sings and plays melancholic songs on her accordion; it fits perfectly here and I would have loved to be here during a well-known summer festival. The whole village seems to be "dressed up" in Medieval style. "Cesky" is a labyrinth of small narrow alleys and streets with beautiful squares and colored houses in all styles. Too bad you can only mention the fact that cars can still come here and spoil your photos. More and more groups of tourists (mainly Asians) fill the streets of which it sometimes seems that they are more interested in the many souvenir shops than in the beautiful merchant houses. Suddenly I stand before the big "St. Vitus "church, another symbol of" Cesky ". It is a beautiful Gothic church from the 15th century with frescoes from that same period. The center consists of no more than a few streets and after a few circles you have been everywhere. Of course I can still enter the "Egon Schiele" or the "Regional Museum" but I think it was actually nice. I make an extra walk just outside the center, doubt to visit the "monastery complex" but decide to take a walk on the ring road from the other side to the center to get a view from the other side of town. From here you can easily see the "castle garden" where in summer there is also a theater that can rotate. From here I walk back to my car. 



tips & advice (2014)


The Cesky Krumlov train station is located 500 meters north of the center, while the bus station is just to the east of it. It lies just east of the river "Vltava".


Spending time:

Although "Cesky Krumlov" is a small town you can spend a few hours just walking around. The castle is the highlight of the old town The streets are narrow and I would return for a lovely walk in the evening (and early in the morning) to have everything for yourself. If you have lack of time and you can only stay here for a day, I would still take half a day

(excluding travel time) to have lunch or breakfast here.

 

ADDITIONAL:

The city "Cesky Krumlov" is often used for TV or film decor. This can be seen in the 2006 international film "The Illusionist" (2006, 7.6).



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